2023 September Newsletter
Candalada
Candalada and Prince Issa Take TaNZANIA
TRIP INSPIRATION
The motivation for this trip was rooted in an invitation to a wedding. I met Connie
(the bride) at Shenandoah University in 2016 when I worked in the business office. We welcomed her on a full scholarship for her Master’s in Business. She spoke 4 languages and displayed pristine problem solving skills in statistics and accounting.
During our preparations for the annual business symposium she said, “If get married would you come?” I said, “of course”. After departing SU, we kept in touch through Hair Therapy services. I started her locs and styled her daughter’s hair.
Covid affected everything. Connie got married yet assured me I did not miss the party and the notable shindig would be in Tanzania at their traditional ceremony. I received the invite well in advance. I am ashamed to say I didn’t really start putting things in motion for the trip until the month before.
I had a robust travel list and it seemed whatever trip was up next received all of my attention. In a slow motion flash it was July 2023 and the 30 day count down to August arrived.
In the future taking the “whatever is next approach” will be shelved. Buying tickets in advance yields tons of savings that I missed out on all of 2023.
THE DETAILS
Planning a trip to Africa made me nervous for two reasons. The first reason was my father was coming. I felt a level of responsibility since it was a trip he had been looking forward to for a lifetime. Secondly, the language barrier. After the traumatizing experience in Italy, I was not sure if I was ready for a trip to a place where English is not the primary language.
My dad’s’ main objective was visiting the Serengeti
I was most interested in visiting the beaches in Zanzibar
Prince Issa was completely in the dark about the trip however, his top interest is always the flight experience
I received many questions about my experiences and contacts. I will attempt to summarize the information in away that will not have you reading and scrolling until 2030. For the sake of flow I will share the info in chronological order.
Arline: Emirates
Ticket Cost: Expensive
Payment: Affirm Monthly plan, then pay off full balance once returned home safely
Itinerary Pre-planned : Arrive in Dar es Salaam, Safari few days (Arusha) , rest (Dar), Zanzibar few days, rest (Dar), Wedding (Dar), leave the next day
Itinerary Unplanned : Sweet Escape in Dubai (Layover)
FLIGHT (International)
The bride did her flight shopping a year in advance and snagged flights for $700. That was painful to hear. When I started looking flights 6 months out the flight average was $1,100. I initially had my eyes on Qatar Airlines for winning the, “Airline of the Year Award” for two years in a row and being the Middle Easts’ only airline with a 5 star rating. They stop in Doha, ranked “2nd Best Airport in the World” after Singapore.
I purchased in July for August and the lowest rate was $1,500. No Qatar tickets were available so I pivoted to Emirates. Confirming the flight would be on a A380 and Boeing 777 for Issa’s interests. Tickets where $1,968 each, including taxes and fees. Flights stop in Dubai named “Busiest Airport in the World”.
Emirates food was good. There was a bit of a mix up with them brining out two sets of vegan meals for Issa and I on each flight. The kids gifts were adorable. Issa was gifted a backpack going and duffle bag returning. A really nice attendant named Calin also gave him an airplane plush. In addition, they took cute polaroids for our keepsake.
Dar es SalaaM: My Home away From Home
The compound in Dar where the bride and groom stayed would be my home away from home for the duration of the trip. It was designed as a vacation home. We stayed in the add on wing, which had three suites. Each room had a full bathroom and AC. I had an affinity for the hallway designed with lush curtains and a wall size mirror.
The front yard was huge, complete with a pool, lush garden, a basketball court and two outdoor tables. The main house held the kitchen, living room and additional bedrooms. Security and a grounds keeper was there at all times and a cook was present for most of our stay.
CANDALADA, CHEF and PRINCE ISSA
GROUNDS KEEPER, DAD, SECURITY
FlIGHT (domestic)
We took Precision airlines booked on kiwi.com which I would later learn is like Spirit Airlines. Travel with Air Tanzania if you can.The flight was delayed both going and coming.
The departing flight experience was circus like. Passengers bored the plane, once seated asked to disembark, denied re-entry to the gate and required to go through security again. A total of 6 security checks! The positive outcome is the 2 hour delay allowed us to see Mt. Kilimanjaro’s peak before landing.
The returning flight was delayed an hour leaving at 10:30 PM verses 9:30 PM. We watched several Air Tanzania flights leave on time while we waited.
Top of Mt. Kilimanjaro over a bed of clouds.
SAFARI
I was recommended to use Wayfare by Connie. I used whats app to communicate with Amani via +255 686 344 889 prior to arriving. Amani sent sample schedules and cost. We agreed on a 3 day, 2 night schedule. The last day was more of a city tour and killing time until departure. I personally thought I could only handle 2 days in the jungle. The rate for locals and visitors is significantly different. A native can travel all the way to Serengeti National Park for the same rate I was charged to go to closer parks.
The most inconvenient thing about this coordination was learning that I could not use my credit card to pay for it just days before trip. Having to pay for the Sarfari in cash caused a ripple affect of inconvenience for me. At least 14 day advance booking is required to consider using a visa.
The best thing about this tour is the coordination of pick ups, drops offs, luggage transfer, lodging, picnics during the tour etc. The guide knew exactly what he is doing. While it may be a first time, whole new world experience for you, the guides boast 9 years of touring experience and extensive driving experience.
We arrived in Kilimanjaro via Air Precision around 8am. A driver took us to AIM Mall. We met the co-owner for an early seated breakfast at AIM Mall. He introduced us to Eric our tour guide for the next few days. Eric took us straight to Tarangire Park.
Safari (Day 1)
gift shop STOP CONTINUED (DAY 1)
I bought things almost everywhere. The gift shop at Tanangire Park was not recommended by my guide. After a few experiences I learned the value of not getting too excited and buying the first thing I see. Many of the same items are available within a region and the major difference is the price. Buying too many overpriced trinkets will deplete the souvenir budget. We stopped at a roadside Massai shop, it was a tad pricey and they expected me to haggle. I bought 2 bracelets for $8 each. It was fascinating to see the work being done behind the shop, wood work and painting.
Jambo Tanzania is a new development that took my breath away. It was the most shoppable complex ever. The prices where reasonable. I would later find similar earrings and bracelets at a lower cost but that shopping experience include being heckled at, while walking in the streets. I was slightly unsure of my safety and sense of direction. At Jambo the sales reps spoke both Swahili and English. The layout was open and spacious. The new complex houses the newest location of the House of Gems. I was able to touch the precious stone Tanzanite I had been dreaming of for the first time here. I danced for joy with Eric as my dad signed paper work for the purchase.
safari night 1
We had very comfortable accommodations at Marera Valley Lodge. A 30 min massage was 30 dollars and 50 min was 45! We checked in late and I was offered an after hours massage from 9 to 10. Much needed after the bumpy ride and long flights. Dinner was good, as was breakfast. We had a huge patio. The rooms had no TV and I did not mind at all. Sleep and hunger were the two major needs during our short stay.
safari Day 2
Masaai Village
Masaai Village aka shake down town. This is a well thought out tourist shake down spot. If you chose to stop at a village you may spend $50 min to enter. The chief will tell you this about 5 minutes after saying hello while walking to the entrance. After you agree and pay the fee they wrap a cloth on you and perform a welcome song.
Once you enter the village you are taken to tour a hut. When you leave the hut escorted to a table of souvenirs starting with souvenirs made by the owners of the house you were in. Once you collect the things you like, a woman of the village gives a total. The quote was $166! For a plate a bowl and a bracelet. I asked for only the bracelet, and that was $20! The most expensive bead bracelet from my entire trip. The same or similar bracelet is $7 in shops.
Then they ask if you want to see the school. There is a huge donation box there. The children say some words and math operations in Swahili. The chief asks, “Would you like to donate money to the school?” If you put money in the box the children clap. Then you walk back to the car where they remove the cloth from you. We were there about 30 min and spent 90 dollars.
Thank You Eric
You are the best
Night 2: Dexter’s House
Beautiful on the outside. Poorly made on the inside.
The shower broke while Issa was using it. Toilet plumbing wasn’t on when we arrived. Drawer in the bathroom fell off when my dad touched it and the kitchen counter top was not attached to the cabinets.
Day 3: Arusha city
I was grateful we did not have to wake up at early in the morning. We had time to take some pictures before heading to see the city of Arusha. Amani educated us about how price is affected by region for certain goods. In general getting items where they are made equals big savings.
Arusha - Tanzanite
Arusha - Coffee
Arusha - Bananas
Stone Town, Zanzibar - Spices
Southern Tanzania - Cashews
KITAMU CAFE
Our last day in Arusha we went for breakfast at Kitamu Cafe. They have an extensive menu with vegan options. The salad was amazing. I ordered sweet potatoes and guacamole. The sweet potatoes were white and the guac was sliced avocado. Far from what I expected.
Bonus: Kitamu has a small shop with handmade bags and glass pouches. Glad I grabbed a few because I didn’t see glass pouches anywhere else.
Cultural HertiTAGE CENTER
The Cultural Heritage center is right next to the Art Gallery and owned by the same person. The Heritage Center is a huge multi level gift shop.
On the second floor there is a jewelry shop where you will find the owner showcasing beautiful rings, earring and bracelets. They accept visa and for purchases of Tanzanite. Discover is not accepted in Tanzania. US Cash, shillings and VISA are most common forms of payment.The certificate includes information on the cut, weight and clarity. More information than the certificate of authenticity provided at the House of Gems. Paperwork is required to take Tanzanite back to the US. If questioned and you do noot have paperwork it may be confiscated.
The third floor has lots of hangable art and sculptures.
AFrican ART Gallery
The art gallery is huge and no pictures are allowed inside. The art is creative and one piece in there took 40 years to make. This is the largest art gallery in East Africa.
SanNa Cafe
Thank You Amani
Arusha, 2023
zanzibar
To get the Zanzibar we took the ferry. Getting on the ferry is a wild experience. When the car pulls up men touch the car like Beyonce is inside. They tell you they are an official worker and to follow them. They harass you to carry your bag and demand a specific tip of $15 dollars each. I did not buy my ticket in advance. My dad opted for gold, the step above economy for $50 each. We liked not being in the elements and having AC. The ride was smooth and peaceful. The hounding for taxings and hustling to purchase products resume as soon as you arrive in Stone Town.
There is also a VIP lounge with good seating we were told about on the way back.
NO Guide equals no FUN
On day one we took a walk from the hotel to the Freddie Mercury Museum. The Museum was informative but short for price. It took about 15 minutes to complete. We tried to just sit in Forodhani Park on the way back and that was not relaxing. We were constantly approached by people selling things from, boat rides to photos. A man even told Issa it was $5 dollars to play on a public beat down playground that was clearly free.
We called Cholo (+255 773 167 696) a guide the bride recommended. He came to meet us at the hotel at 6:30 PM. We walked back to the same park and somehow it felt different. He was speaking to everyone and no one was speaking to us. It was great! I decided to get my henna done because it was something I wanted to have for the wedding. I paid $25 dollars and I was told by locals that was way too much.
We experienced the infamous Forodhani street food market that takes place every night. At the end of the night Cholo gave me the rates for an all day excursion. For $291 we would visit the following places and secure seafood lunch for dad and vegan lunch for Issa and I. :
Nungwi Natural Aquarium
Nungwi Beach
Kwale Island
Sandbar near Kwale Island
Mangrove near Kwale Island
DAY TRIP REvIEW
The aquarium was small informative and fun.
Nungwi Beach looked beautiful but the shores felt rocky. The chairs are rented by local men and the Masaai walk the beach fully robed asking, “Are you are okay?” I assume people often ask to take pictures with them and then they charge them.
The ride to get on the boat to Kwale was an hour. Walking to the boat over the low tide was an experience. The boat ride was pleasant and plenty of fruits were served. The diver diving to get starfish was a highlight for me.
Kwale beach was active. I ate fruit from the Boabab tree over 300 years old. We picked up the food from Kwale and the sandbar was a short ride away. Cholo’s crew pitched a tent for shade. The food was EXCELLENT. My dad said it was a bad ass meal. That means it was really good.
The mangrove waters are still, quiet, low and warm. For the finale they raised the sails of the Dhow boat. The wind carried us back quicker than the motor.
golden tulip: Stone town, ZANZIBAR
PROS
Walking distance to the ferry
Extensive breakfast spread
Can see the sunset from the roof
CONS
Rooms are dark
Bathroom design is odd. No door on shower, water gets all over the floor.
Smells a bit damp
Aggressive birds come to rooftop tables, take food and stare.
When cleaning dirty sheets and items are in the hallway too long.
food In DAR
nyama choma
Located on the water this is a beautiful place to eat. We watched a lunar eclipse while sipping mango and passion fruit juice. The menu had vegetarian options. Cultural items ordered for my dad to try included beef skewers and fried octopus.
woodBerry Cafe
A favorite for me. I went to visit three times. The atmosphere is flexible and relaxing.
THE AFRICAN WEDDING EXPERIENCE
DUBAI
Heading back while sitting on the plane I realized the layover was 4 hours unlike the 1.5 hours it was coming. Just enough time to squeeze in the Burj Kahlifa if we left the airport right way. I read the building was 15 min from the airport.
Dubai’s Airport was huge. It was a lot of walking. Also the staff so forceful about shuffling people to the connecting flight area. When I was asking how to leave the airport one staff members told me I could not. I knew that was not true. I asked another staff member for directions to the exit. He told me to make sure I am back an hour before and told me where to go. We arrived at 9:30 PM. Got outside with our carry-ons by 10:30 PM.
The taxi line was long and moved quickly. We took a taxi to the Burj Kahlifa. Stepped out took pics. The driver was supportive of the mission and also took us to see it from another angle. The city was lit up and very beautiful. We passed the 7th largest mall in the world. Then we headed back.
The fare in local currency seemed high. In USD the fare was a little above $30 dollars and worth every penny. We were back just before 12 midnight for our flight that departed at 2AM.
Security did make me reprint my boarding pass because it ripped in my purse. Issa lost track of his bag at Emirates passport check point. I had to go back to get it and those 15 min of not having the carryon with all the good stuff in it was stressful.
Once we boarded it was smooth flight home and we marveled at the excitement of adding Dubai on to an already great trip. I dreamed about the sexy Chanel suit I saw in the airport most of the flight home.
Dubai Airport 12:01 Birthday
Emirates Birthday #2. Time went backwards :)